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March 03, 2007


tomas rahal

yes mojo, i feel your pain. whilst growing up in savannah, one of the native rivers, the ogeechee, receives these oily bastards, whereupon their arrival was met with crackling bacon grease (the substrate of all country cooking,)and the popping magma known as shadroe was prepared and consumed by one and all. at a mammazu's dinner, my companion knowing of my distaste for the funk of shad, mischievously informed ed, the chef, that it was my favorite, whereupon ed personally prepared some for me as his father had, smothered in anchovy butter and broiled. imagine my dilemma as i choked down half a set so as not to offend our host's generosity. there's not enough chianti in the world to make that right. i have not touched it since and that person is not on my dinner list anymore.


Well, Sonny Boy, you'd better save a set or two for your dear old mother, the LOL (little old lady) who taught you how to cook shad roe. First, dry the set with paper towels. Dip into some sort of fat (bacon grease, butter, etc.) Salt and pepper. Flour. Place in hot fat in pan. Use a toothpick to prick holes at that point. AND PUT A TOP ON THE PAN! It doesn't take long to cook. Turn very quickly and REPLACE TOP! By this time, it's ready. Prick again before lifting to warm plate. Yes, you'll be branded by some of those sets, but the result is so delicious it's worth it. Love from Mom

Chef Mojo

Yes, Ma'am.


I, too, am all too familiar with shad. Nasty stuff to prepare. But for us (as appears on our local fishmonger's sign...yes, Russo's..."For those in the know, it's shad and shad roe), we stuff fillets with the sauteed roe and serve it in parchment. Fortunately, we have gotten away from running it during the season, except when someone requests it, which is not very often.

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